Saturday, December 17, 2011

Nerd Pilgrimage and other fun updates

Something truly awesome happened the last couple of weeks.

Actually a lot of awesome things happened the last couple of weeks.

But the thing I'm thinking of is my visit to Qumran with Professor (Dr. Rabbi) David Levine.

Caves at Qumran.

For those of you who don't know, I really love linguistics and ancient semitic languages. This is almost entirely due to the incredible professors I studied with in the NELC department at The Ohio State University. So, this year, when I started my History of the Second Temple Period class, I was already looking forward to learning about the Dead Sea Sect at Qumran. Luckily, my professor set up a quick day-trip to Qumran to see what the archaeologists have discovered there since a family of Bedouins discovered the scrolls in the 1940s.

Cave 4!

This trip was unequivocally a nerd pilgrimage for me. After spending spring quarter of last year in a class dedicated to learning about the Qumran community and learning how to read and translate the scrolls themselves, the trip to Qumran was huge for me.

Shrine of the Book at the Israel Museum

It was perfect timing, also, because earlier the same week we traveled to the Israel Museum to see the Shrine of the Book. This is the exhibit that was built in order to house and present the Dead Sea Scrolls. In it is a facsimile of the Great Isaiah Scroll (the original is in their archives so it doesn't get damaged) and several of the artifacts and scrolls discovered in the Qumran area. Learning about the building itself was totally awesome; basically, in the theology of the Qumran community, there were the sons of light (they followed the line of Zadok, and were the members of the Dead Sea community) and the sons of darkness (others) and the way the building is set you up you have to walk from darkness to light. The whole thing was built so intentionally and so perfectly. It was a dream to get to hear from the curator of the scrolls, Adolfo Roitman, and to learn about sacred secular spaces in Jerusalem.

Birds at Qumran with the Dead Sea behind them

So, between our awesome visit to the Shrine of the Book and actually seeing Qumran, it was a totally awesome hands on learning sort of week.

Mini replica of Ancient Jerusalem. That's the TEMPLE FOR ANTS!

We've been keeping busy with school as we head into finals. One day we spent the day in the Old City learning at the Armenian Patriarchate. It was a great day, and it's nice to have the chance to learn about the vast diversity of religions of this city. It's really cool knowing that you live in a place that's so important to so many people, and hearing why so many different types of people feel connected to Jerusalem.


Seminary at the Armenian Patriarchate

Additionally, there have been a couple of really cool shabbat experiences the last couple of weeks. Two weeks ago, I joined a few of my friends from HUC at Benjamin's house, and we got to meet some of Ben's friends from Hartman, a text study group for rabbinical students here in Jerusalem. They study at Hebrew College, and it was awesome getting to hear from other types of rabbinical students. Before dinner, we joined together in an alternative kabbalat shabbat (welcoming shabbat, another term for Friday night shabbat services). Each of us brought something to share with the group; anything from a conversation on gratitude to reflections on loss and happiness to a mantra meditation helped us welcome shabbat that night, and then we feasted on a quasi-thanksgiving dinner. It was really awesome.

Sculpture at the Israel Museum

Last night, I joined one of the Israeli students in the HUC Israel program for shabbat services at his community and dinner with his family. It was totally amazing to hear from someone in the Israeli program, get to hear about how they made the choice to become a reform rabbi in Jerusalem, and to spend time in a home surrounded by such a warm and welcoming family. Also, the meal was totally delicious. There is just something so wonderful about a home-cooked meal and being surrounded by family, even when it isn't your actually family. Shabbat in Jerusalem is just an incredible thing.

Christmas spotted in the Christian Quarter of the Old City!

So, as we gear up for finals after my first ever semester (I'm used to 10 week quarters...this semester thing is tough!), everyone is going a little crazy. One of our professors remarked in his lecture last week that the semester doesn't end, it just deteriorates. He's totally right. We're basically all falling apart at the seams over here, but at least we're together.

Stick, Benjamin, and I in "Space that Sees" at the Israel Museum

I'm truly amazed at how much I've learned in the last 6 months. I use Hebrew instinctively now instead of being afraid to ask questions and being misunderstood. I can tell you about the structure of a morning service and why, historically, certain elements are important. I can write an essay in Hebrew analyzing literary devices used by the narrator in the biblical text, including an interpretation of several medieval and modern commentators. I can explain more coherently why issues in Israel are as complicated as they are. I'm growing to understand Jewish diversity in the Jewish state. All in all, it's been a wonderful semester filled with learning and new experiences and, most of all, seeing Israel through a new lens. I can't wait to see what the next 6 months bring!

Thanks for reading!



Sunday, December 4, 2011

Sun, Sea, Desert, and...Elvis?

Run to the desert. You will see all that you need to be. --Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros

Sometimes it rains in Jerusalem.
Just moments ago I made the journey from the USA to Israel.
Wait, you mean that was in June?
And now it's DECEMBER?

How?!

Here are some highlights:

A couple of weeks ago we had an Israel Seminar trip with some of the members of the HUC Board of Governors to Holon, where we got to meet with the CEO of the city, learn about the presence of the Reform community there, and see some of the town's highlights. We got to see one of the many children's story gardens in the town, where books come to life for the children. We also got to participate in something called "Dialogue in the Dark," where seeing participants are given a walking stick and follow a blind guide through an oppressively dark room. It was an incredible experience. Being able to have that experience, where you're entirely dependent on someone else, and you're not able to see anything (your eyes never adjust--you can't even see your hand right in front of your face) was really amazing. The activity ends with a conversation with the guide, where you get to ask questions about their experiences and lives. It was a really great trip!

Chameleon in a kids' story garden

The Board of Governors visit was a very busy week. The day after our trip to Holon, we got to hear from Jerusalem Mayor Nir Barkat. His address was very interesting, and it was a cool opportunity to hear how the Reform movement is perceived in Jerusalem. That night, I had the opportunity to go over to my friend Benjamin's house for a dinner and discussion with activist Kathleen Peratis, who serves on the board of several powerful organizations stateside. We got to hear about her experiences working with JStreet, as well as her take on some of the human rights elements of the world of Middle East politics. It was a great conversation; she answered all of our questions candidly, and she really inspired me to think critically about what's going on around me, whether or not I agree with her politics.

The next morning was the ordination for the HUC Israeli Rabbinical program. It was a beautiful service, and many people shared some meaningful reflections during the ceremony. I'm absolutely amazed at how much Hebrew I'm able to understand at this point. It is totally awesome. That evening we welcomed Shabbat together with the Board, and we had a great musical service at school. One of our summer interns, Amy, came back to Jerusalem to visit, and we got to have dinner with her that night.

Then, suddenly, it was time for our tiyul (טיול=trip/tour) of the south!

View from Park Timna

We had an incredible few days in the desert. We explored ideas about why the Torah was received in the desert (there were Moses and tablets-themed jokes the entire weekend) and we got to really explore how different the south of Israel is from the north.

Touristy photo at the colored sands

We started our trip with a stop in Yeroham, where we heard from the mayor of the town about his family. We spent some time up in the mountains, taking in the scenery and enjoying the fresh air. We visited the Colored Sands for an afternoon program and a quick mincha (afternoon prayer service). Then, after settling in at Kibbutz Yahel, we joined our JTS/AJU friends for a bonfire and dinner al ha-eish. I have never really seen stars like these, except the night we spent in the desert on birthright. We enjoyed being outside and had a great song session around the fire.

Stars in the desert

The next morning, we went hiking! The group I was with went to Park Timna, where we took in the incredible views. Some people even went paddle-boating afterwards! I had the opportunity to lead mincha for my group. We were at a place called Solomon's Pillars for the service, and the space was amazing. I felt honored to have had the chance to lead my colleagues in prayer!

Solomon's Pillars

After services, on our way back to the kibbutz, we stopped at Yotvetah for glida (גלידה=ice cream) and shoko b'sakit (שוקו בשקית=chocolate milk in a little plastic bag, kind of like a capri sun but without the straw). This trip was such a huge success that (spoiler alert) we went back the next day, too. We also had our very own Thanksgiving dinner! It was not really the same at all but it was still a really nice evening.


Israel's largest solar field

So Friday we went to Kibbutz Keturah, where we got a tour of Israel's largest solar field. After that, I went with a group to Kibbutz Lotan, where I learned about mud brick making, organic companion planting, and composting. From there, we went to Eilat! I've never been to Eilat but we had a lot of fun. We were at the very tip of the map of Israel! From where we were, you could see all sorts of other countries (who largely LOVE that Israel exists...oops). We went snorkeling (despite the chilly wind) and I have to say...it was awesome! I loved getting to see the coral and the fish.

View of Jordan from the beach in Eilat

Friday night we joined the Kibbutz Yahel community for Shabbat services. It was a very musical service, and it was great to have everyone singing to welcome in Shabbat. One of my classmates, Yael, and I wrote a d'var torah (דבר תורה–word of Torah. basically a little drasha/sermon) about the Torah portion. We gave the d'var in HEBREW! It was a challenging but rewarding activity. Yael and I have a pretty hilarious dynamic together, so I think it really worked. It was an wonderful experience, and I look forward to doing more things like this in the future.

So much beauty to take in at Kibbutz Yahel

Saturday morning we walked out (someone even shlepped a Torah!) into the desert for our Shabbat morning service. Everyone in the service did an outstanding job! I love when my fellow classmates lead services. Everyone is so supportive, and you end up leaving the service feeling so proud of your friends.

My awesome roomie Becka doing a great hagbah!

So, after a short but sweet time in the desert, it was time to head back to Jerusalem. We had a quick havdallah under the stars, and made it back into J'lem late Saturday night. Since then, we've been settling into the home stretch. Finals are shockingly right around the corner, which means a megavisit from the Muhlbaums is happening soon! This week's Israel Seminar trip took us to a hilarious Elvis rest stop and the Channel 2 News Studio. We've been talking about the impact radio and television have had on the foundation of the Israeli community, and it was really cool to have a behind-the-scenes look at the news station.

So confusing. Elvis!

Class photo from Channel 2

This weekend, despite the never ending to-do list I've accumulated, I went up north to Haifa to visit my dad's cousins again. It was, per usual, excellent. I feel so lucky to have family here! I got to practice my Hebrew, enjoy some fabulous home cooking, and I even did some sightseeing!

Qaesarea

Friday we went to Qaesarea and then had Shabbat dinner, and then Saturday we went on a trip to Rosh Hanikrah and Akko. There is something so magical about the water up north. I really loved having the opportunity to get a little change of scenery from Jerusalem. I came back feeling refreshed and happy to have spent some quality time with some tremendous people.

Grotto at Rosh HaNikrah

Rosh HaNikrah

So there's a little sampling of what I've been up to! Life is good, time is flying, and my poor camera is getting a workout. Israel is such a beautiful place and I'm so happy to be living here for the year!

Marina in Akko

Sunset in Akko
Thanks for reading =)

Panoramic view of Park Timna