Nerd Pilgrimage and other fun updates

Something truly awesome happened the last couple of weeks.

Actually a lot of awesome things happened the last couple of weeks.

But the thing I'm thinking of is my visit to Qumran with Professor (Dr. Rabbi) David Levine.

Caves at Qumran.

For those of you who don't know, I really love linguistics and ancient semitic languages. This is almost entirely due to the incredible professors I studied with in the NELC department at The Ohio State University. So, this year, when I started my History of the Second Temple Period class, I was already looking forward to learning about the Dead Sea Sect at Qumran. Luckily, my professor set up a quick day-trip to Qumran to see what the archaeologists have discovered there since a family of Bedouins discovered the scrolls in the 1940s.

Cave 4!

This trip was unequivocally a nerd pilgrimage for me. After spending spring quarter of last year in a class dedicated to learning about the Qumran community and learning how to read and translate the scrolls themselves, the trip to Qumran was huge for me.

Shrine of the Book at the Israel Museum

It was perfect timing, also, because earlier the same week we traveled to the Israel Museum to see the Shrine of the Book. This is the exhibit that was built in order to house and present the Dead Sea Scrolls. In it is a facsimile of the Great Isaiah Scroll (the original is in their archives so it doesn't get damaged) and several of the artifacts and scrolls discovered in the Qumran area. Learning about the building itself was totally awesome; basically, in the theology of the Qumran community, there were the sons of light (they followed the line of Zadok, and were the members of the Dead Sea community) and the sons of darkness (others) and the way the building is set you up you have to walk from darkness to light. The whole thing was built so intentionally and so perfectly. It was a dream to get to hear from the curator of the scrolls, Adolfo Roitman, and to learn about sacred secular spaces in Jerusalem.

Birds at Qumran with the Dead Sea behind them

So, between our awesome visit to the Shrine of the Book and actually seeing Qumran, it was a totally awesome hands on learning sort of week.

Mini replica of Ancient Jerusalem. That's the TEMPLE FOR ANTS!

We've been keeping busy with school as we head into finals. One day we spent the day in the Old City learning at the Armenian Patriarchate. It was a great day, and it's nice to have the chance to learn about the vast diversity of religions of this city. It's really cool knowing that you live in a place that's so important to so many people, and hearing why so many different types of people feel connected to Jerusalem.

Seminary at the Armenian Patriarchate

Additionally, there have been a couple of really cool shabbat experiences the last couple of weeks. Two weeks ago, I joined a few of my friends from HUC at Benjamin's house, and we got to meet some of Ben's friends from Hartman, a text study group for rabbinical students here in Jerusalem. They study at Hebrew College, and it was awesome getting to hear from other types of rabbinical students. Before dinner, we joined together in an alternative kabbalat shabbat (welcoming shabbat, another term for Friday night shabbat services). Each of us brought something to share with the group; anything from a conversation on gratitude to reflections on loss and happiness to a mantra meditation helped us welcome shabbat that night, and then we feasted on a quasi-thanksgiving dinner. It was really awesome.

Sculpture at the Israel Museum

Last night, I joined one of the Israeli students in the HUC Israel program for shabbat services at his community and dinner with his family. It was totally amazing to hear from someone in the Israeli program, get to hear about how they made the choice to become a reform rabbi in Jerusalem, and to spend time in a home surrounded by such a warm and welcoming family. Also, the meal was totally delicious. There is just something so wonderful about a home-cooked meal and being surrounded by family, even when it isn't your actually family. Shabbat in Jerusalem is just an incredible thing.

Christmas spotted in the Christian Quarter of the Old City!

So, as we gear up for finals after my first ever semester (I'm used to 10 week quarters...this semester thing is tough!), everyone is going a little crazy. One of our professors remarked in his lecture last week that the semester doesn't end, it just deteriorates. He's totally right. We're basically all falling apart at the seams over here, but at least we're together.

Stick, Benjamin, and I in "Space that Sees" at the Israel Museum

I'm truly amazed at how much I've learned in the last 6 months. I use Hebrew instinctively now instead of being afraid to ask questions and being misunderstood. I can tell you about the structure of a morning service and why, historically, certain elements are important. I can write an essay in Hebrew analyzing literary devices used by the narrator in the biblical text, including an interpretation of several medieval and modern commentators. I can explain more coherently why issues in Israel are as complicated as they are. I'm growing to understand Jewish diversity in the Jewish state. All in all, it's been a wonderful semester filled with learning and new experiences and, most of all, seeing Israel through a new lens. I can't wait to see what the next 6 months bring!

Thanks for reading!

Sun, Sea, Desert, and...Elvis?

Run to the desert. You will see all that you need to be. --Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros

Sometimes it rains in Jerusalem.

Just moments ago I made the journey from the USA to Israel.

Wait, you mean that was in June?

And now it's DECEMBER?

How?!

Here are some highlights:

A couple of weeks ago we had an Israel Seminar trip with some of the members of the HUC Board of Governors to Holon, where we got to meet with the CEO of the city, learn about the presence of the Reform community there, and see some of the town's highlights. We got to see one of the many children's story gardens in the town, where books come to life for the children. We also got to participate in something called "Dialogue in the Dark," where seeing participants are given a walking stick and follow a blind guide through an oppressively dark room. It was an incredible experience. Being able to have that experience, where you're entirely dependent on someone else, and you're not able to see anything (your eyes never adjust--you can't even see your hand right in front of your face) was really amazing. The activity ends with a conversation with the guide, where you get to ask questions about their experiences and lives. It was a really great trip!

Chameleon in a kids' story garden

The Board of Governors visit was a very busy week. The day after our trip to Holon, we got to hear from Jerusalem Mayor Nir Barkat. His address was very interesting, and it was a cool opportunity to hear how the Reform movement is perceived in Jerusalem. That night, I had the opportunity to go over to my friend Benjamin's house for a dinner and discussion with activist Kathleen Peratis, who serves on the board of several powerful organizations stateside. We got to hear about her experiences working with JStreet, as well as her take on some of the human rights elements of the world of Middle East politics. It was a great conversation; she answered all of our questions candidly, and she really inspired me to think critically about what's going on around me, whether or not I agree with her politics.

The next morning was the ordination for the HUC Israeli Rabbinical program. It was a beautiful service, and many people shared some meaningful reflections during the ceremony. I'm absolutely amazed at how much Hebrew I'm able to understand at this point. It is totally awesome. That evening we welcomed Shabbat together with the Board, and we had a great musical service at school. One of our summer interns, Amy, came back to Jerusalem to visit, and we got to have dinner with her that night.

Then, suddenly, it was time for our tiyul (טיול=trip/tour) of the south!

View from Park Timna

We had an incredible few days in the desert. We explored ideas about why the Torah was received in the desert (there were Moses and tablets-themed jokes the entire weekend) and we got to really explore how different the south of Israel is from the north.

Touristy photo at the colored sands

We started our trip with a stop in Yeroham, where we heard from the mayor of the town about his family. We spent some time up in the mountains, taking in the scenery and enjoying the fresh air. We visited the Colored Sands for an afternoon program and a quick mincha (afternoon prayer service). Then, after settling in at Kibbutz Yahel, we joined our JTS/AJU friends for a bonfire and dinner al ha-eish. I have never really seen stars like these, except the night we spent in the desert on birthright. We enjoyed being outside and had a great song session around the fire.

Stars in the desert

The next morning, we went hiking! The group I was with went to Park Timna, where we took in the incredible views. Some people even went paddle-boating afterwards! I had the opportunity to lead mincha for my group. We were at a place called Solomon's Pillars for the service, and the space was amazing. I felt honored to have had the chance to lead my colleagues in prayer!

Solomon's Pillars

After services, on our way back to the kibbutz, we stopped at Yotvetah for glida (גלידה=ice cream) and shoko b'sakit (שוקו בשקית=chocolate milk in a little plastic bag, kind of like a capri sun but without the straw). This trip was such a huge success that (spoiler alert) we went back the next day, too. We also had our very own Thanksgiving dinner! It was not really the same at all but it was still a really nice evening.

Israel's largest solar field

So Friday we went to Kibbutz Keturah, where we got a tour of Israel's largest solar field. After that, I went with a group to Kibbutz Lotan, where I learned about mud brick making, organic companion planting, and composting. From there, we went to Eilat! I've never been to Eilat but we had a lot of fun. We were at the very tip of the map of Israel! From where we were, you could see all sorts of other countries (who largely LOVE that Israel exists...oops). We went snorkeling (despite the chilly wind) and I have to say...it was awesome! I loved getting to see the coral and the fish.

View of Jordan from the beach in Eilat

Friday night we joined the Kibbutz Yahel community for Shabbat services. It was a very musical service, and it was great to have everyone singing to welcome in Shabbat. One of my classmates, Yael, and I wrote a d'var torah (דבר תורה–word of Torah. basically a little drasha/sermon) about the Torah portion. We gave the d'var in HEBREW! It was a challenging but rewarding activity. Yael and I have a pretty hilarious dynamic together, so I think it really worked. It was an wonderful experience, and I look forward to doing more things like this in the future.

So much beauty to take in at Kibbutz Yahel

Saturday morning we walked out (someone even shlepped a Torah!) into the desert for our Shabbat morning service. Everyone in the service did an outstanding job! I love when my fellow classmates lead services. Everyone is so supportive, and you end up leaving the service feeling so proud of your friends.

My awesome roomie Becka doing a great hagbah!

So, after a short but sweet time in the desert, it was time to head back to Jerusalem. We had a quick havdallah under the stars, and made it back into J'lem late Saturday night. Since then, we've been settling into the home stretch. Finals are shockingly right around the corner, which means a megavisit from the Muhlbaums is happening soon! This week's Israel Seminar trip took us to a hilarious Elvis rest stop and the Channel 2 News Studio. We've been talking about the impact radio and television have had on the foundation of the Israeli community, and it was really cool to have a behind-the-scenes look at the news station.

So confusing. Elvis!

Class photo from Channel 2

This weekend, despite the never ending to-do list I've accumulated, I went up north to Haifa to visit my dad's cousins again. It was, per usual, excellent. I feel so lucky to have family here! I got to practice my Hebrew, enjoy some fabulous home cooking, and I even did some sightseeing!

Qaesarea

Friday we went to Qaesarea and then had Shabbat dinner, and then Saturday we went on a trip to Rosh Hanikrah and Akko. There is something so magical about the water up north. I really loved having the opportunity to get a little change of scenery from Jerusalem. I came back feeling refreshed and happy to have spent some quality time with some tremendous people.

Grotto at Rosh HaNikrah

Rosh HaNikrah

So there's a little sampling of what I've been up to! Life is good, time is flying, and my poor camera is getting a workout. Israel is such a beautiful place and I'm so happy to be living here for the year!

Marina in Akko

Sunset in Akko

Thanks for reading =)

Panoramic view of Park Timna

Samachti

Today we had the ordination ceremony for the students in HUC's Israeli rabbinical school. Some of my class (HUC America?) put together a choir to sing Samachti (a song based on Psalm 122) and here's the video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5cDUcKwBsg

I promise a proper update soon. But that's all for tonight. Shabbat Shalom!

The Joys of Autumn

I really love autumn.

The smells, the scarves, the squashes.

The colors, the breeze, everything.

I just really love it.

The problem with living in Israel is that fall didn't happen when I wanted it to. October was basically just as hot as the few months before it, and since the trees are different here, there was very little change in the leaves. It was still too warm for jeans, let alone scarves, and there were no pumpkins to be found.

Finally, November arrived. Saying finally seems ridiculous because I feel like I just moved here 2 minutes ago so how is it already November, but I digress.

November brought with it a shocking change. Suddenly, it was only in the 60s, and Israelis donned their thick down coats (I am absolutely not kidding nor exaggerating) to protect them from the wintry winds. Remember: I said it went down to the 60s.

Then, one day, I went to the shuk and saw pumpkins. Not just any pumpkins, folks. These pumpkins were giant, white, and chopped up into family sized portions for people to buy and make tasty fall treats with.

Giant white pumpkins at the shuk

Suddenly I was flooded with ideas. Pumpkin cookies, pumpkin soup...pumpkin soup? Yes. I was reminded by my epic discovery of butternut squash soup from the last couple of years (hi are you kidding it is so perfect) and I knew I had to use squash somehow.

So, Friday morning when I trekked to the shuk with my usual partners in crime, I was on a mission. I needed to procure butternut squash, and quickly.

Was I successful?

Clearly.

So I got back from the shuk, unloaded the bajillions of fruits and veggies I purchased for the week (is it bad that I'm already thinking about how hard shopping will be without the shuk next year?) and started on the squash. I decided to bring a roasted fall vegetable medley to shabbat dinner, so I paired my squash with carrots, onion, garlic, and red potatoes. Yes, it's okay to drool.

First thing first, I had to peel the squash. Luckily, a normal veggie peeler does the trick. Then I cut each squash into quarters, removed the gloopy stringy nonsense from within, reserved the seeds (more on those in a minute) and then diced the squash.

Inside of the butternut squash.

At this point I was trying to figure out how to get out of going to shabbat dinner so I could keep the squash to myself. I, however, am not a squash hoarder, so I let that train of thought go and kept on chopping veggies. I tossed them in some olive oil, salt, and pepper, and then let my teeny tiny oven work its magic.

Veggies prepped for the oven.

And friends, that's exactly what happened.

Both batches combined after roasting! YUM.

Once both batches of veg were out of the oven, I rinsed and dried the squash seeds, poured some melted butter on them, sprinkled some salt, and then popped those into the oven to become a crispy little snack. Mission accomplished. They're awesome.

Squash seeds!

So I took the vegetables, which tasted exactly like Thanksgiving should, to dinner. Miraculously, there were leftovers, which meant one thing and one thing only: SOUP.

This morning, after feasting on some Na'aman Challah French Toast made by my roommate Becka (omg best french toast ever) I went to work on the soup. Which was really no work at all.

I warmed up the leftovers in a pot, while getting some broth ready in a saucepan. The broth I used was a parve (neither meat nor dairy in kosher law) chicken flavored soup. I'm pretty wary of meat flavored parve things. Some sort of Willy Wonka nonsense has to be involved to get something that has no chicken in it to taste like chicken, but there are certain circumstances that require sensitivity to people's kosher observance, so it's good to have an option. Turns out, this broth wasn't too bad. It's no homemade chicken stock, but it did just fine.

Stop.

I really love soup, guys. It's so warm and hearty and just is the best.

So anyway, veggies are reheated, broth is boiling, what to do next? Well, you just combine some broth with the veg and use your best friend, the immersion blender.

Immersion blender: every soup lover's best friend.

What you're left with is quite possibly the most perfect and delicious fall treat ever. A bright orange concoction filled with everything wonderful the season has to offer.

Get out of town. This soup rules.

So, even though today there's a high of 77 and it's the middle of November, I'm starting to feel like it's fall.

Life After the Holidays.

Rare clear view of Jordan from my window

When I arrived in Israel this summer, people were already saying "acharei hachagim" (אחרי החגים=after the holidays, meaning Rosh Hashannah, Yom Kippur, and Sukkot). This excuse was used for anything from courses, programming, sales on food, etc. and it was EVERYWHERE. Well, now, finally we find ourselves in the part of the Jewish calendar that is affectionately deemed acharei hachagim. And now life can begin again.


That being said, it's been entirely too long since my last post; we should all see this as good news, because it means that I have been running around like a crazy person experiencing Israel and filling my brain with knowledge.

Way up north

When I last posted, it was still fully summer, and now it is fully autumn. And it's about time. No longer are the days long and sweaty. In fact, sunset happens around 5 pm now, and although the temperature rarely gets below 60, we all spend most of our days freezing. When there is no carpet and everything is made of stone, it's easy to get chilled. This change in the weather is really great though. Fall is my favorite season, and I'm glad it's here. Bring on the scarves, cardigans, and delicious fall treats (butternut squash, I'm looking at you.)

So what in this great world have I been doing since my last post?

Basically everything.

A few of us decided to kick off our fall break with a trip to the zoo. The zoo in Jerusalem is not any ordinary zoo. Nope. Instead, it is the Biblical Zoo, and it totally rules. Almost every animal has a biblical verse associated with it; sometimes the specific animal itself is mentioned in the verse, other times just the type of creature. In the water section with all the fish and stuff there are verses from Genesis about creation. It seriously was a great experience and we got to go on the giant Noah's Ark.

Crazy bird at the zoo. Giant. Terrifying.

After goofing around in Jerusalem for a day or two, I enjoyed an incredible week in the north with my cousins during Sukkot. I had only planned on going for the first weekend of the break, but I had so much fun (and so much food) I couldn't say no when they asked me to stay! It was a great opportunity to keep getting to know them, and I basically only spoke Hebrew for that week.

Bahai Gardens at night

While I was there, we went to a Moroccan pre-wedding celebration called a Hina (from the word henna). It's amazing how quickly you become one of the family with Israelis. Suddenly, a swarm of people I had never even seen before were delighted to share their table, stories, and traditions with me.

Some decorations from the Hina

One day we visited my cousin's wife Yael's family. They live in a moshav by the Kinneret, and it was the greatest day. The night we arrived at her mom's home, there were some 40 family members around (complete with a tiny new baby and a dog!---two of my favorite things) and every single person was so warm and welcoming that I instantly felt at home. The next afternoon I got to experience something called Al Ha-Eish (על האש––literally "on the fire" but basically a giant bbq) which was a great success.

Al ha-eish!

Cannot describe how delicious the druze pitas are.

Other highlights from the vacation: a day spent in Tel Aviv, beautiful sunsets in Haifa, some fun sightseeing, experiencing the Druze village and the shuk on Shabbat, and just generally loving being in a home and enjoying a break from the tension of Jerusalem.

Hi readers!

I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to spend time with family while I'm here. It's so refreshing to be up north, near the mountains and the sea, and just to feel at home.

Unexpected view of the Kinneret

Since break, things have picked up quickly. We're really in the crazy part of the semester; it turns out that having 9 classes means lots of tests, quizzes, and papers right about now. Between trying to figure out what in the world happened during the Second Temple Period, deciphering biblical stories into Modern Hebrew and English, and wondering why the rabbis of the rabbinical period decided it would be a good thing to say 100 blessings a day, I've been keeping pretty busy with schoolwork. In fact, my to-do list doesn't even fit on one page anymore. Crazy!!

Balloons at the wall....because nothing says mincha quite like balloons.

We've been doing a lot of cool stuff at school lately. A couple of weeks ago we had a session with famous Israeli author Etgar Keret. We basically had an open forum with him, where he told us about his writing process, read to us from some of his most recent pieces, and let us do a question and answer section. It was a very interesting evening!

Last week, my classmates and I participated in something called the Duma. Never heard of it? That's okay, I hadn't either. Basically what we did was we did a mock election for the Duma for 1906. We were each assigned to some of the Russian political parties/brands of Zionism from the early 1900s; then we had to read articles and prepare songs and speeches to get people to vote for us. It was a fun and informative night, and a lot of people really got into character.

In other hands-on learning opportunities, we've been exploring a lot of issues in our Israel Seminar. We've heard speakers from so many different perspectives, and it's been a great opportunity to see how Israelis interact with other Israelis, outside communities, and politics in general. Last week we used the shuk as our central text for examining mass immigration to Israel, which was delicious, informative, and just generally a great idea for an educational program.

In the realm of extracurricular activities, life is also crazy busy. Becka and I hosted another scrumptious shabbat dinner last week (fancy schnitzel, minestrone, and a million other tasty things) after I joined some of my friends at an egalitarian orthodox congregation for my favorite shabbat service yet. I also joined an amateur choir to get back into singing for fun (something I missed terribly--why can't we have a gospel choir here?).

Map of what you can see from where you're standing. So much!

Also, I'm volunteering once a week at an Ethiopian absorption center just outside of Jerusalem, which is AWESOME. All of us that go are partnered up and we have families that we basically just hang out with. It's a great chance to practice Hebrew, paint with watercolors, and get off campus for a few minutes every week.

Sunset in Tel Aviv

The moral of the story is that time is flying, life is good, and I'm learning everything I possibly can. I am thoroughly enjoying my time here, and I'm trying to experience everything I can and pick up as much Hebrew as possible. How can it be that it's already November?

Olive tree by my apartment

Thanks for reading!

Exquisite sunset in Haifa. Unreal.